![](\"https:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/shadows.jpg\"\/)
![](\"https:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC09979.jpg\"\/)
<\/div>final image\/ uprocessed raw<\/em>\nTo save the highlights I had to underexpose this image a lot. Thanks to the DRO function I could focus none the less.<\/em><\/p>\n
This trick only works if you shoot raw.<\/em><\/p>\n The problem:<\/em> If you have a high contrast scene and expose it for the highlights you often have to use a negative exposure compensation and end up with a very dark preview image. This is no problem because you can brighten your image a lot in post but it makes focusing and composition hard. Another situation where this problem arises is when you are using flash to light a foreground subject, but there’s bright natural light in the background. While you are focussing, the foreground subject will be likely too dark to focus.<\/p>\n The solution:\u00a0<\/em>The DRO function is meant to lift the shadows in your jpg images which is just what you need: Use DRO +5 and the shadows of your preview image will be pushed by about 3 stops so you can see into the shadows now. Your raw file won’t be affected by the setting. Don’t forget to turn it off though or it is easy to unintentionally underexpose your images.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n This trick only works if you shoot raw.<\/em><\/p>\n The Problem:\u00a0<\/em>If you have a high contrast scene you want to expose it so that the highlights are close to clipping but not actually clipped. Without any aids it is hard to get your exposure exact and you get increased shadow noise or clipped highlights because of that. This trick works best if you shoot raw. This trick does not work for the a7s\/a7sii.<\/em><\/p>\n The Problem:\u00a0<\/em>If you have experimented with focus peaking you will know that it highlights areas which are not really sharp. FP will only give you a kinda in focus image but you will get significantly sharper results if you use focus magnification. Focus peaking can also make composition impossible if you have lots of small detail in your image because the whole screen will turn red or whichever color you use for peaking. Credit for this hack goes to sebboh<\/a>\u00a0from whom I learned about this trick.<\/p>\n The Problem:\u00a0<\/em>Your Alpha has two memory slots on the mode dial but many people don’t know how much time these can save them and therefore don’t bother to set them up and waste precious time in the field. When you have setup your camera go to:\u00a0Camera\/9\/Memory\u00a0<\/em>and select\u00a01.<\/em> Now every time you turn your mode dial to 1 you will have these settings. This makes setup fast but it also reduces the risk that you shoot jpg only at ISO 1600 for half an hour because you accidentally hit the wrong button.<\/p>\n Since I discovered how useful these memory slots are I hardly use any of the other mode settings. I do 90% of my shootings on the settings above but if I have too little light I change to mode\u00a02<\/em>\u00a0where my settings are the same but:<\/p>\n The Problem:\u00a0<\/em>Sony has used a too sensitive EVF sensor since they introduced the Nex-6 5 years ago. If you sue the monitor and get too close to the EVF with your jacket or hand it will automatically switch to the EVF which is really annoying. If you have any hacks or tricks for the a7 series please let us know!<\/p>\n This site contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using any of the links marked as affiliate links, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. This helps support the creation of future content.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" This is just a short selection of tricks which make it easier to use your Sony a7 series camera. 1. Use DRO to see into the shadows final image\/ uprocessed raw To save the highlights I had to underexpose this image a lot. Thanks to the DRO function I could focus none the less. This … Continue reading 5 hacks for the Sony a7 series to make your shooting easier<\/span> 2. Use the zebra function for perfect exposure<\/h1>\n
\nThe Solution:\u00a0<\/em>Your Alpha has a zebra function which is meant to get exposure right for video but it can help you to get perfect exposure in your raw files. Zebra even in its most sensitive setting is based on the jpg and shows overexposure much too early but there is a workaround. Lock exposure, ISO 100 and set zebra to 100+. Now change your exposure until the zebra shows an overexposed area. Then decrease exposure until zebra stops to show but no further. Then increase exposure by 1 and 2\/3 stops. Bang! Perfect exposure.<\/p>\n3. “Focus peaking” that actually works<\/h1>\n
\nThe Solution:\u00a0<\/em>Don’t use focus peaking. Instead watch for moire-patterns in the EVF. Moire is a byproduct of the sub-sampling which the camera does to generate the life-view image and it only happens with fine, detailed areas of the images. To learn this technique change your\u00a0Creative Style<\/em> to Sharpness +3 <\/em>and focus on some fabric. You should now see that the sharp parts of the image show some shimmering. Then start to experiment with other subjects. It helps if you have a sharp lens but even my Minolta MC 1.2\/58<\/a> at f\/1.2 shows moire.
\nI use this technique all the time and you can easily focus on a persons eyelashes with it without having to magnify. So it is more precise than focus peaking, less distracting and faster than focus magnification.<\/p>\n4. Use the memory slots for faster operation<\/h1>\n
\nThe Solution:\u00a0<\/i>Use them ;). It is quite easy actually. First think about which is the setup you use the most and then go to whichever mode that is and dial in your most used setting. My personal settings for Mode 1<\/em> are:<\/p>\n\n
\n
5. Fix the damned EVF sensor<\/h1>\n
\nThe Solution: <\/em>Cover parts of the EVF sensor with black tape. Now your EVF sensor works as it should have right from the beginning! Credit goes to\u00a0cputeq<\/a>\u00a0for this hack so I will leave it to him to explain it in a bit more detail.<\/p>\nOther Articles<\/h1>\n
\n