{"id":144,"date":"2014-02-03T00:28:57","date_gmt":"2014-02-02T23:28:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/?p=144"},"modified":"2024-04-21T15:07:44","modified_gmt":"2024-04-21T14:07:44","slug":"how-i-create-images-part-2-working-with-the-sony-a7","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/how-i-create-images-part-2-working-with-the-sony-a7\/","title":{"rendered":"How I create Images \u2013 Part 2: Working with the Sony a7"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a title=\"DSC03201 by reevedata, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/96189377@N08\/12278053054\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.staticflickr.com\/7352\/12278053054_e17b36ffd3_o.jpg\" alt=\"DSC03201\" width=\"2048\" height=\"2048\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nIn this article I talk about how I use my camera in the field, so it is rather focused on the Sony Alpha\u00a07, but I think that it holds some interest for users of other cameras as well.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>This post ist part of a series:<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"How I create images \u2013 Part 1 : the search for good light\" href=\"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/how-i-create-images-part-1\/\">HOW I CREATE IMAGES \u2013 PART 1 : THE SEARCH FOR GOOD LIGHT<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"entry-title\"><a title=\"How I create Images \u2013 Part 3: Postprocessing\" href=\"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/how-i-create-images-part-3-postprocessing\/\">HOW I CREATE IMAGES \u2013 PART 3: POSTPROCESSING<\/a><\/p>\n<p>My current camera is a Sony a7, I think it is the best camera for my style of photography because of several reasons:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>it is great for manual focusing<\/li>\n<li>it has a sensor with a large dynamic range<\/li>\n<li>it has good high Iso performance<\/li>\n<li>nearly all lenses can be adopted to it<\/li>\n<li>\u00a0it is smaller than all other cameras with similar image quality.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>At the moment I only own manual lenses (I <a title=\"Rolling Review: Carl Zeiss Vario-Tessar T* FE 4\/24-70 ZA\" href=\"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/rolling-review-carl-zeiss-vario-tessar-t-fe-424-70-za\/\">tried the SEL2470z<\/a> but was quite disappointed by it), for my kind of photography I don&#8217;t need the speed of an AF-lens but I like the better control over the point of focus, manual lenses provides. And I enjoy the process much more.<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"winterfarben3 by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/11390475714\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.staticflickr.com\/7300\/11390475714_829ffb61ee_o.jpg\" alt=\"winterfarben3\" width=\"1280\" height=\"933\" \/><\/a><em>this image was taken with one of my favourite lenses, \u00a0a 30\u20ac <a href=\"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/minolta-md-zoom-35-70mm-3-5-review\/\">Minolta MD 3.5\/35-70<\/a>\u00a0which can&#8217;t be used on any othe full-frame camera<\/em><a title=\"winterfarben3 by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/11390475714\/\"><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<h3>Display and EVF<\/h3>\n<p>I often have the 3&#215;3 grid enabled \u00a0(not so much because of the rule of thirds, but mostly to avoid oblique angles).<\/p>\n<p>As I shoot raw only I can use the image styles to optimize what the EVF displays, I have for example set sharpness to +3 which makes it a bit easier to judge sharpness with the EVF (more about that in <a title=\"Manual lenses on the Sony a7 \u2013 A beginners guide\" href=\"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/manual-lenses-sony-a7\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">this article<\/a>).<\/p>\n<p>In very contrasty situations I also use DRO to anticipate how much I can lift the shadows when I post process the image, if my shadows are totally black despite having used DRO 5, I will\u00a0 have a hard time to recover them in Lightroom. This does not affect the raw, I just use it to see better.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 1.0909090909;\">Focusing<\/span><\/p>\n<p>I have focus magnification placed on the AF\/MF button which I find much easier to reach than the C1 \u00a0button and magnification time is set to &#8220;No Limit&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>The best focusing technique for me depends on the setting, whether I photograph non moving objects or moving ones.<\/p>\n<p>There are three different focusing techniques I commonly use:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>for landscapes and other non-moving motifs I usually use <strong>focus magnification<\/strong>, because it is absolutely reliable, but it is also rather slow.<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">for slowly moving objects I look for <strong>flickering<\/strong> in the EVF, flickering will only occur in really sharp areas. It is more sensitive than the focus peaking and much less distracting.<\/span><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">With this technique I usually get critically sharp images without using magnified focus\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\"><strong>focus peaking<\/strong> is most useful when one is working with small DOF or faster moving objects. It is in my eyes totally useless when the DOF is bigger, because it will often highlight parts of the image which aren&#8217;t sharp but have high local contrast.\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">I find it much more useful in combination with the magnified view, but too distracting in unmagnified view, so usually I don&#8217;t use it. I wished Sony would give us the possibility to use it in magnified view only.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>For a more detailed discussion of these techniques please read my <a title=\"Manual lenses on the Sony a7 \u2013 A beginners guide\" href=\"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/manual-lenses-sony-a7\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">manual lenses beginners guide<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"Adler by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/8757481443\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm4.staticflickr.com\/3690\/8757481443_2c4dd6a2cc_o.jpg\" alt=\"Adler\" width=\"1280\" height=\"930\" \/><\/a><em>for this action shot I used focus peaking\u00a0<\/em><a title=\"Adler by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/8757481443\/\"><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<h3>Exposure<\/h3>\n<p align=\"left\">I usually try to expose the image so that I have details in even the brightest highlights and often end up with rather underexposed looking raw files. Because the a7 has such a great dynamic range I can push the shadows in LR up to 4 stops I end up with a gentle highlight roll off and good shadow detail.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\"><a title=\"beforeAfter by reevedata, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/96189377@N08\/12277915724\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm6.staticflickr.com\/5485\/12277915724_1e6fef120d_o.jpg\" alt=\"beforeAfter\" width=\"1280\" height=\"933\" \/><\/a><em>to save detail in the highlights I exposed for the lights and lifted the shadows in Lightroom<\/em><a title=\"beforeAfter by reevedata, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/96189377@N08\/12277915724\/\"><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">\u00a0This technique works because the A7 has much more headroom in the shadows, than in the highlights, if highlights are blown, they are blown and nothing can be recovered.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">If the shadows of the image appear black, one can in fact push them 3 or even 4 stops before most detail is lost to noise.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">\u00a0To make sure that the highlights are correctly exposed I use the a7&#8217;s zebra function (Settings\/Submenu 1\/Zebra), which in my eyes is a great tool which is too often overlooked.<br \/>\nI have set it to 100+, at this setting white stripes will appear in those areas where at least one color channel has clipped. Because Zebra is based on the jpg you have a little more headroom than the camera thinks.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">Im my eyes the Zebra function is superior \u00a0to the live-histogram because the histogram doesn&#8217;t show individual color channels and you won&#8217;t nice if only one color channel is clipping while the other two are not.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">\u00a0The a7&#8217;s dynamic range is largest at ISO 100.<\/span><\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">ISO 50 is pulled from ISO 100 so you have a little less noise in the shadows and a much less gentler highlight roll off.<br \/>\nWe loose dynamic range as we move away form ISO 100, therefore I try to avoid using anything but ISO 100 for scenes with a lot of contrast and carry a tripod with me so I can shoot my landscapes at ISO 100 and f\/11 even in the fading light.<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"Noise by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/10968882335\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm4.staticflickr.com\/3789\/10968882335_72489ae9b9_z.jpg\" alt=\"Noise\" width=\"270\" height=\"640\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a><em>this test shows, that the a7 has much less highlight headroom at ISO 50<\/em><\/p>\n<p><a title=\"dynamci-range by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/10968320504\/\"><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm6.staticflickr.com\/5492\/10968320504_bd6cb2999c_z.jpg\" alt=\"dynamci-range\" width=\"259\" height=\"640\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n<\/a><em><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">this test shows how much the shadows can be pushed in postprocessing<\/span><\/em><a title=\"dynamci-range by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/10968320504\/\"><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<h3 align=\"left\">\u00a0Exposure Modes<\/h3>\n<p align=\"left\">Most of the time my camera is set to <strong>A-mode<\/strong> and ISO 100, in this mode I can change the aperture or my composition and the camera can choose the best exposure time.<br \/>\nI leave A-mode if I am working handheld and it gets darker so that the shutter speed chosen by the camera drops below 1\/(2*focal length). So if I am working with a 50mm lens and the camera would use a shutter speed of 1\/80s, I switch to <strong>S-mode<\/strong> and Auto ISO and set the shutter speed to 1\/100s .<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">\u00a0I use <strong>M-Mode<\/strong> either for panoramas were I compose many images into a single one or when the camera&#8217;s logic is failing which sadly is rather often the case.<br \/>\nFor example I have been using the ZA 1.8\/135 ZA quite a bit an whenever I use this lens in S-Mode the camera wants to stop it down to f\/4. To use it wide open (why else would I want to carry such a heavy lens?) I switch to M-Mode, dial in my desired aperture and shutter speed and let the camera choose ISO-value accordingly.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\"><a title=\"DSC05114 by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/12010827655\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm6.staticflickr.com\/5490\/12010827655_4e6a724eac_o.jpg\" alt=\"DSC05114\" width=\"1280\" height=\"953\" \/><\/a><em><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">the camera couldn&#8217;t know that I was using a monopod, so I used M-Mode: 1\/320s | IS0 2000 | 400mm<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">The a7 has two programmable modes on the dial, you can set them by setting up the camera to the desired settings, then go to Menu\/Camera\/Submenu 7\/Memory and select either register 1 or 2 by pressing the middle button. Form now you can access these settings by turning the mode dial to 1 or 2.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">Because I use the two settings describe above 95% of the time I have set 1 to S-Mode Auto ISO and 2 to A-Mode ISO 100.<\/p>\n<h3 align=\"left\">\u00a0Framing<\/h3>\n<p align=\"left\">One thing I really like about the A7 is the tiltable display, it gives me more freedom for compositions. I normally couldn&#8217;t have done.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">I use the display about as much as the EVF.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">I prefer the EVF for longer lenses because I can hold the lens more stable with the EVF which leads to easier focusing.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">In general prefer the display for wider lenses and for tripod use, but I also use it with longer lenses, if I am working close to the ground or above eye level.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm3.staticflickr.com\/2873\/12219366176_8f21c811ba_o.jpg\" alt=\"Eis im Licht II\" width=\"1280\" height=\"953\" \/><br \/>\n<em>When I took this picture I was close to the water and leaning down, I couldn&#8217;t have composed it trough the EVF.<\/em><\/p>\n<h3 align=\"left\">Hand holding technique<\/h3>\n<p>A good technique is important to keep the camera steady, bad technique will result it blurred images.<br \/>\nIn general it is to have as many contact points with the body as possible.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">When I am using the display I support the camera or lens with my left hand and operate it with the right one. Both my arms are rested on my hips to minimize shake.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">\u00a0When I am using the EVF I rest my elbows on my chest, again to minimize camera shake.<\/span><\/p>\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">\u00a0A less better stabilized image will make focusing easier as well, especially with longer lenses.<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 align=\"left\">Final Words<\/h3>\n<p>Thanks for reading, if you have any question, just leave a comment!<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.staticflickr.com\/7293\/12274404335_99700c1cb3_o.jpg\" alt=\"Groundhog\" width=\"1280\" height=\"953\" \/><em>for this picture I used the display to get as close as possible<\/em><\/p>\n<p><a title=\"gate at the old mill by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/12169026915\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm4.staticflickr.com\/3668\/12169026915_29071f425d_o.jpg\" alt=\"gate at the old mill\" width=\"1280\" height=\"953\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a title=\"DSC04712 by Phillip Reeve, on Flickr\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/birnenbaumgarten\/11950156406\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm6.staticflickr.com\/5550\/11950156406_bd2102327b_o.jpg\" alt=\"DSC04712\" width=\"1280\" height=\"953\" \/><\/a><em>this picture was taken with a tripod, a handhold image would have had a much worse quaility<\/em><\/p>\n<p>If you liked this part you might enjoy the other\u00a0parts as well:<\/p>\n<p class=\"entry-title\"><a title=\"How I create images \u2013 Part 1 : the search for good light\" href=\"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/how-i-create-images-part-1\/\">HOW I CREATE IMAGES \u2013 PART 1 : THE SEARCH FOR GOOD LIGHT<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"entry-title\"><a title=\"How I create Images \u2013 Part 3: Postprocessing\" href=\"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/how-i-create-images-part-3-postprocessing\/\">HOW I CREATE IMAGES \u2013 PART 3: POSTPROCESSING<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"entry-title\">If you want to learn more about manual lenses then this article will be useful: <a title=\"Manual lenses on the Sony a7 \u2013 A beginners guide\" href=\"http:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/manual-lenses-sony-a7\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Manual Lenses on the Sony a7 &#8211; a beginners guide<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"entry-title\">This site contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using any of the links marked as affiliate links, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. This helps support the creation of future content.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In this article I talk about how I use my camera in the field, so it is rather focused on the Sony Alpha\u00a07, but I think that it holds some interest for users of other cameras as well.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-144","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Working with the Sony Alpha 7 Tips and Tricks<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In this post I share some tips and tricks about the Sony Alpha 7 and my workflow. Topics are exposure, focusing, exposure modes and sharp images\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/phillipreeve.net\/blog\/how-i-create-images-part-2-working-with-the-sony-a7\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Working with the Sony Alpha 7 Tips and Tricks\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In this post I share some tips and tricks about the Sony Alpha 7 and my workflow. 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