Introduction
One of the first reviews I wrote here was for the Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G in 2016. A lot has happened since: Nikon now has its own mirrorless system, many new ~20mm lenses have been released in the meantime and also my testing methods have improved. A lot of reasons, to have another look at this lens.
Update April 2026: complete rewrite of the review.
Sample Images
Many of the sample images in this review can be found in full resolution here.
Contents
Specifications
-
- Diameter: 80.5 mm
- Field of view: 94° (diagonally)
- Length: 82.5 mm
- Weight: 355g (without hood[23g] and caps)
- Filter Diameter: 77 mm
- Number of Aperture Blades: 7 (slightly rounded)
- Elements/Groups: 13/11
- Close Focusing Distance: 0.2 m
- Maximum Magnification: 1:3.9 (measured)
- Mount: Nikon (G standard without aperture ring)
- Released: 2014
This lens can be ordered new for $750 on Amazon.com
Handling/Build quality
This Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G is part of Nikon’s more affordable f/1.8 line up together with the 24mm 1.8G, 28mm 1.8G, 35mm 1.8G, 50mm 1.8G and 85mm 1.8G.
The outer casing seems to be mostly made from high quality polycarbonate which is also true for the filter thread. There is a rubber gasket to be found at the bayonet.
The focus ring features a mechanical coupling to the helicoid (no focus by wire) and it takes about 90° from the minimum focus distance (0.20 m) to infinity.
The resistance is okay, definitely not as nice as a real manual lens or some of Sigma’s better AF lenses.
Many Nikon AF-S G-lenses show some slack when changing the direction of rotation on the focus ring and this 20mm 1.8G is clearly one of those, setting precise focus manually is not a great joy with this lens.
A plasticky bayonet type lens hood it also part of the package. It can be mounted reversed for transport.
This is a “G” lens – which means it doesn’t feature an aperture ring. This means it doesn’t work properly on old manual focus SLRs and if you adapt it to another camera system you need an adapter with built-in aperture control to be able to change the aperture value.
With the Monster LA-FE1 and LA-FE2 adapters also the autofocus will work on Sony cameras, but I found mine to be a little bit too short, leading to degraded image quality.
If you are a Z-mount user this lens works flawlessly on the FTZ adapters.
AF performance
Via the FTZ adapters on a Nikon Z-mount camera the AF works just as well as on an F-mount camera this lens had originally been designed for.
I also tested the AF with the Monster LA-FE1/2 adapters on Sony E-mount cameras. Here the AF worked surprisingly well – much better than I would have expected. But as said before these adapters are a tad too short, degrading the image quality of wide angle lenses like this 20mm 1.8.
The AF-S f/1.8 primes are generally not very fast focusing lenses, I do think this is one of the faster ones though.
Vignetting
| f/1.8 | 2.7 EV |
| f/2.8 | 1.7 EV |
| f/4.0 | 1.4 EV |
| f/5.6 - f/16 | 1.3 EV |
In this category lenses like this one, that have ben designed for (D)SLRs actually have a potential benefit over those designed for rangefinder/mirrorless cameras: the long back focus distance can lead to light rays coming from the rear element hitting the sensor at less acute angles. Comparing these vignetting figures to those of the Sony FE 20mm 1.8 G this is indeed the case, as stopped down this Nikon lens shows about 1 EV less vignetting.
The Nikon AF-S 24mm 1.8G and the Nikon AF-S 28mm 1.8G show the same amount of vignetting as this Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G.
It is recommended to have a look at this article first to get an idea how this brightness graph works.
Sharpness
MTF-Graphs
The MTF graphs of this Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G show a good to very good performance across most of the frame with a noticeable drop in performance towards the corners.
Most MTF-Graphs show calculated values that do not take into account manufacturing tolerances and sample variation. Furthermore they are usually calculated for infinity, so in the field and shooting at different distances a noticeable variation may be visible.
The MTF graphs of the latest mirrorless designs like the Nikon Z 20mm 1.8 S and the Sony FE 20mm 1.8 G promise higher across frame performance with almost no drop in performance towards the corners.
infinity (42mp Sony A7rII, 24mp Nikon Zf)
At f/1.8 this Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G is a bit softer, which was hard to notice on Nikon’s popular 12 to 16 mp DSLRs but is surely more noticeable on a higher resolution camera.
The MTF graphs look pretty accurate to me, as the corners surely benefit from stopping down. Peak across frame performance is reached around f/5.6. Again the Nikon AF-S 24mm 1.8G and the Nikon AF-S 28mm 1.8G show a similar performance.
The latest mirrorless designs like the Sony FE 20mm 1.8 G and the Nikon Z 20mm 1.8 S clearly outperform this Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G here.
This is a lens with an internal focus mechanism, so the correct length of the adapter is crucial for it to show optimal performance.
close (0.20 m, 1:3.8, 42mp Sony A7rII)
All three of Nikon’s f/1.8 AF-S wide angle lenses offer a maximum magnification of around 1:4, which gets you close to macro territory and I think is very nice to have.
At its maximum aperture this 20mm is a bit soft, but stopping down does improve the performance noticeably.
Flare resistance
When this Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G was released I compared it to my Nikon AF-S 24mm 1.4G and what really stood out to me at that time was how much better this 20mm handles backlit scenes. Does it still hold up well today? Let’s find out.
Just as I remember, a very good performance indeed. It is actually hard to catch any artefacts at f/1.8, even shooting directly into the sun. The contrast also stays on a high level and veiling flare is nothing to worry about.
Stopped down I actually managed to create a small rainbow artefact in a staged scenario, which can be easily avoided by slightly reframing.
While Nikon definitely cut some corners when it comes to the build quality of these f/1.8 wide angle lenses, they didn’t when it comes to their flare resistance. I am not sure if it is the nano coating that makes the difference, but one way or the other, this is still a great performance today.
Coma
We see noticeable Coma at f/1.8 and still some at f/2.8. It is mostly gone by f/4.0.
By today’s standards, the performance at f/1.8 is not something to really get excited about here. The Sony FE 20mm 1.8 G corrects this aberration much better and I expect the same of Nikon’s latest Nikon Z 20mm 1.8 S.
When this lens was released in 2014, the situation was very different. This 20mm 1.8G was wider and a lot cheaper than the Nikon AF-S 24mm 1.4G, which was released only 4 years earlier. At that time it was one of the best options for astrophotography, as Canon had no wide angle this fast and neither did Sigma until they released their Sigma 20mm 1.4 Art in 2016. So in 2015 I already used this Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G to film the Aurora in Iceland with a Sony A7s, when common belief still was that it cannot be filmed in real time and one has to resort to creating timelapses to capture its movements.
Distortion
This Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G shows a low amount of barrel distortion. As you can see, the correction profiles in e.g. Lightroom, Photoshop or – if you are using a modern Nikon camera – directly in camera correct this perfectly.
Bokeh
At the time this lens was released, common opinion was that (ultra) wide angle lenses create rather unsightly, nervous bokeh. Nikon’s AF-S wide angle primes actually changed that.
Now with a 20 mm lens, even if the maximum aperture is f/1.8, you have to be pretty close to your subject to create a shallow depth of field. Thanks to the maximum magnification of ~1:4 you can get pretty close with this lens though and in this scenarios it creates a very nice, unobtrusive bokeh.
You just have to be careful with the perspective distortion of a 20mm lens, which is why I wouldn’t use it for close ups of adults. It can work well for toddlers, pets and plants though, where the distortion won’t be as obvious (or even desired).
Sunstars
If you had a look at some of my reviews of Nikon’s AF(-D) era or earlier lenses from the AF-S era you may remember that a nice sunstar rendering isn’t exactly what they are famous for.
Now this Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G marks a bit of a turning point, offering rather nice 14-pointed sunstars from f/5.6 to f/16. In the Nikon world it actually became quite famous for that.
Mind you, the sunstars it creates are not as distinct as those from the Zeiss Loxia and many Voigtländer lenses.
Chromatic aberrations
lateral
Nikon has started relatively early with correcting lateral CA in camera for Jpegs (since the D3/D300 era) and it looks to me like that was reason enough for them not to put too much effort into correcting this aberration with the optical design here.
In the meantime this has become a typical approach across most manufacturers and it isn’t really a big deal, as this aberration can be losslessly corrected in post (e.g. in Lightroom).
longitudinal
Some of the Nikon AF-S primes perform pretty bad in this category and while this 20mm 1.8G is not free from bokeh fringing, it is actually one of the better ones. I do not remember taking a picture where I found it actually bothersome.
That being said, the Sony FE 20mm 1.8 G is almost completely free from it, so by today’s standards we cannot call this a great performance.
Also purple fringing can be spot at f/1.8. Stopped down to f/2.8 it is pretty much gone.
Conclusion
good
|
average
|
not good
|
In 2014, when this lens had been released, it was an easy recommendation to any Nikon shooter looking for a fast wide angle lens, as competition was pretty much non existent and it was fairly priced, especially compared to the f/1.4 AF-S primes.
When it comes to fast wide angle lenses, mirrorless designs are at a huge advantage though. The latest designs like the Nikon Z 20mm 1.8 S or the Sony FE 20mm 1.8 G are generally better corrected lenses. For that better correction they are also about double as expensive though and it is questionable if you will really notice that optical difference in the field – unless you do a lot of astrophotography, there you probably will.
Mind you, some corners have also been cut when it comes to the build quality. Mostly plastic (also on the inside) and the slack in the focus ring is not something I am fond of either.
This lens still ticks many boxes though: flare resistance is very good, stopped down sharpness is very good, bokeh is nice, sunstars are nice and on the used market this lens is pretty affordable now. So if you are looking for an affordable lens in this range for your Z camera with FTZ adapter – or for a late analogue F-mount AF SLR – this can still be a good choice.
This lens can be ordered new for $750 on Amazon.com
A word of caution: I was looking for a Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G to use on my Nikon Zf and analogue Nikon F80 in 2025. I tried three different samples. All of them showed a slight decentering in the midframe, while the decentering test in the corners looked okay (this can happen with fast wide angle lenses). On all three of them the MA/M switch did not work at first. On two of them moving it back and forth a few times got it to work again, on the third it was simply broken. Two of them also had radial play between the front and the rear part of the lens, which luckily can be fixed rather easily, if you are familiar with opening and working on lenses. I can only recommend buying this lens used when you have the chance to check it out in person before buying or if you can easily return it.
Alternatives
Many alternatives are covered in our Guide to 20-28mm wide angle lenses for E-mount, so I will only talk about the most obvious ones in detail here.
Z-mount
Nikon Z 20mm 1.8 S
For the Z-mount users this is kind of the obvious choice. It has higher resolution and contrast – especially at f/1.8 – and is about the same size as this Nikon AF-S 20mm 1.8G with an FTZ adapter. The only reasons to pick this older 20mm 1.8G are its lower price and that it is compatible to Nikon’s DSLRs and late AF SLRs.
buy from amazon.com | amazon.de | B&H | ebay.com | ebay.de (advertisement/affiliate links) for $947
E-mount
Caution: due to the difference in filter stack these wide angle E-mount lenses will not work as well on a Z-mount camera at wider aperture settings as they do on an E-mount camera.
Sony FE 20mm 1.8 G
If you are an E-mount user looking for a 20mm 1.8 lens this is the one I would recommend to get.
buy from amazon.com | amazon.de | B&H | ebay.com (advertisement/affiliate links) for $898
Sigma C 20mm 2.0 DG DN
At the end of the day the only reason to choose the Sigma 20mm 2.0 over the aforementioned Sony FE 20mm 1.8G is its lower price. So if the massive 4.3 EV vignetting don’t bother you this Sigma can be an interesting alternative that saves a noticeable amount of money.
buy from amazon.com | amazon.de | B&H | ebay.com | ebay.de (advertisement/affiliate links) for $549
Tokina Firin 20mm 2.0 AF
A sharp lens and a very good choice for astrophotography but for landscape photography the weak flare resistance can be a serious issue. When it was first released there was little competition, but now with the Sigma 20mm 2.0 C DG DN and the Sony FE 20mm 1.8 G it became even harder to recommend than it already was.
buy from amazon.com | amazon.de | B&H (advertisement/affiliate links) for $699
Sigma Art 20mm 1.4 DG DN
At first sight this does sound like a very good lens, but it shares a significant issue with the Voigtländer 21mm 1.4 E: the vignetting figures are simply too high.
Going by the specifications the main application of a lens like this is astrophotography and for that reason alone you may want to choose it over the “slower” Sony FE 20mm 1.8G, but comparing the actual vignetting figures lenstip derived (which in the past were very similar to mine) you will find out those of this Sigma lens at f/1.4 are 2/3 of a stop higher in the corners than those of the Sony lens at f/1.8, meaning there is hardly any benefit of using the arguably “faster” f/1.4 lens here. If this is really the case I fail to see the point of this lens.
buy from amazon.com | amazon.de | B&H | ebay.com (advertisement/affiliate links) for $899
Voigtländer 21mm 1.4 Nokton E
Thanks to the record breaking high vignetting figures what I have written about the Sigma 20mm 1.4 Art DG DN applies here as well. This Voigtländer lens is the best at combining nice distinct sunstars with an f/1.4 maximum aperture though.
Since release this came down a lot in price and I think there is a reason for that.
buy from Amazon.com | Amazon.de | B&H | ebay.com (advertisement/affiliate links) for $899
Zeiss Loxia 21mm 2.8
This was one of the first E-mount lenses I bought and it is still in use, but fact is there are now only three possible reasons to choose it over the much cheaper Sony FE 20mm 1.8 G: you love manual focus lenses, you love its sunstars or you love Zeiss.
buy from Amazon.com | Amazon.de | B&H | ebay.com | ebay.de (advertisement/affiliate links) for $1549
Sample Images
Many of the sample images in this review can be found in full resolution here.
I also wrote a small “first-hands” review for nikonrumors.com in 2014, as I was an early adopter of this lens.
Further Reading
- All Lens Reviews
- Review: Laowa 9mm 5.6
- Review: Nikon AF-S 24mm 1.4G
- Review: Nikon AF 85mm 1.4D
- Review: Nikon 200mm 2.0 IF-ED
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Bastian – Great and timely review again. I agree manual focus on a 20mm lens is generally no problem, but is it difficult to pinpoint focus on stars for astrophotography (or perhaps the infinity mark is accurate?)
Thanks!
Dear Jordan,
if there is any AF lens where the infinity mark is accurate, this will probably just be a coincident 🙂
It is also worth mentioning that some adapter manufactures “play safe” and producing there adapters a little shorter, so it is guaranteed to be able to get to infinity in the first place.
When it comes to astrophotography I always look for a bright point of light far away (star, streetlantern) and focus by using liveview. The moment the point of light is the smallest is also the point where it is the sharpest.
Hi there! Great review!
Will you guys be reviewing the Batis 25 anytime soon?
Hey, as far as I know none of us is planning on buying one soon, but maybe we will get a loaner.
I would definetly like to do a review of that lens.
Hello
you’ve tried the AI Nikon 20mm f / 4 or AIS Nikon 20mm F / 3.5? and MIR-MC 20mm f / 3.5
Not yet, no.
To add onto Juan’s list – the Nikon 20mm f/2.8 AI-s?
The 20mm f4, ais f3.5 are great for close ups and sunstars, but not good at infinity. The 20mm f2.8 , not for close ups and all are MUCH worse performers, at 36M and even at 12 Megapixel camera’s. Softer already from 20% out of the centre of the frame. the 3.5 AIS and 4.0 AI version are great for IR-photography. I have no experience with the MIR. The 20mm f1.8 is my most used lens also used a lot during time lapsing Milky Way and landscapes ( with D800+D750) Have a look what the 20mm f1.8 does in a astro time lapse contains milky way + aurora from New-Zealand
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYPTqQ-QWjc&list=PLMop6hQFvsU_rbOrGSA8g2TI4s7uK8mSr&index=2
It is a wonderful night sky you have there, gotta book some flights 🙂
Great review thanks! I yesterday shot my first astro photos, and so far i am very happy with the overall performance, but i have some issues with the infinity focusing, i feel its not accurate and stars looks blurry when zoom at 100%, any suggestion?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/free3yourmind/28872830591/in/photostream/
You might be right. I always use Liveview, look for the brightest star, zoom in and turn the focus ring until the star appears to be the smallest. If it is the sallest it is alsomhe sharpest.
Bastian
All of your reviews and write ups are great. Thanks. Did you have issues attaching the Nikon 20mm to the Metabones adapter? I just bought the Metabones adapter that you have pictured and can’t get it to attach to my Nikon 20mm 1.8. It seems to fit on but only turns like a centimeter before feeling like it can’t turn anymore. What am I doing wrong? I tried my Tamron 24-70 2.8 as well and that did not work either.
Thank you Doug!
I know the problem you are talking about very well.
A few week ago I borrowed someone my adapter and got it back with the exact same issue.
The problem is this:
Inside are three little bend plates that hold the lens in place, one of them is
probably sticking out just a tad too much.
My theory is, if you put a lens on the adapter and turn it in the wrong direction you bend the pins in the wrong direction as well
and it isn’t possible attaching a lens anymore.
You got two options here:
1. Return the adapter in exchange for a new one
2. Try to bend the pins in the right direction with 2 very small screwdrivers
Bastian
I appreciate the quick reply. I will give it a try.
Hi Bastian,
I really enjoy your reviews on lightweight wide angle options. I currently am using the zeiss/sony 16-35 f4 and enjoy it, but I find I myself using my contax zeiss 35-70 for most of my work and was considering selling my 16-35 due to its steep price and low use and picking up a cheaper prime wide angle. Would the nikon nikkor 20 or 24mm f2.8 perform similarly to this lens at all? Or would your recommend any other legacy wide angles?
Thanks!
Joe
Hi Joe,
I don’t really like the AF-D 20mm 2.8 and AF-D 24mm 2.8 lenses, in case that are the ones you are talking about.
Maybe our comparison for wide angle lenses is of interest for you?
Bastian
Thanks! I will probably just keep the 16-35 for awhile as it is very convenient. The reviews you guys do and lists are super helpful as well! The lists and guides you guys have been putting up are a great way to bring all the reviews together.
Thank you BastianK for this useful discussion,
I am using sony a7ii camera. And I am planning to buy 20mm lens for landscape and astrophotography.
I have read your review and it is very nice written. But for me, the size of the lens is quite important.
As far as I know, there is a big difference between Nikon 20 f1.8 and Loxia 21 f2.8 and that is speed.
However, How many of astro shots are using this advantages? Because most of the photos (I’ve seen) have be taken around 2.8 and slightly above.
Another question is what would be the effect of native lenses like Loxia and converted one like Nikon on the quality, vignetting and coma of the pictures?
For me who does not have the Nikon adaptor (surely I have to pay for well-built adaptor as well), what would be your suggestion for around 20mm lenses?
I really appreciate your help.
Pretty much all of my astrophotography shots with the Nikon lens have been taken at f/1.8.
The Loxia 21mm 2.8 shows less coma compared to the Nikon (at the same aperture) but vignetting is higher.
A too short adapter can have a negative influence on corner sharpness and coma with internal focusing lenses
like the Nikon 20mm 1.8G. As of today the Novoflex adapters seem to be the best.
Nikon 20mm 1.8G + Novoflex adapter should still be less expensive compared to the Loxia.
If you are not in a hurry it may be worthwhile to wait for a real review of the new Tokina Firin 20mm 2.0.
Unfortunately the manufacturer wasn’t yet able to provide us with a review sample.
Hi Bastian,
Great review – not my first time reading it as I go back and forth around the web trying to decide what to buy! I’m very much tied by budget but looking to invest in a good quality lens covering wide angle on a Sony A7. Currently I’m looking at this lens vs the Samyang 20mm F1.8. Do you have any experience with it? Any ideas what the image quality difference would be, especially considering that adapters get a bad reputation for quality as light bounces around the inside.
Thanks,
Will.
Dear Will,
I have no first hand experience with the Samyang 20mm 1.8, but as you may not know this is also a DSLR design like the Nikon lens.
It is available with E-mount, but it is nothing but the DSLR lens with a “glued” adapter and looks like this.
Hi Bastian
I love your reviews a lot. They are clear, detailed and with beautiful sample shots. I just want to throw in a 20mm lens for your consideration in testing as I find it work pretty well on my a7 and a7ii, that is the Voigtlander Color Skopar 20mm f/3.5 Aspherical MF SL II Lens. The one I have is the Canon version. I know the aperture is not big enough for you who is an astrophotographer, but to those who don’t require such a large aperture would probably find this lens lovely.
Here is a shot taken with the lens by me:
https://www.facebook.com/ryan.lightbox/photos/a.130843607456297.1073741828.129966387544019/142956139578377/?type=3&theater
Cheers
Ryan
Dear Ryan,
thank you for your feedback!
The Voigtlander 20mm 3.5 certainly is a very interesting lens!
Correction, mine is the Nikon version. Anyway, I guess there would be not much difference.
Hi Bastian,
After reading some reviews on the Tokina Firin, I am really curious to know how well could it perform against the Nikon 20mm 1.8G, especially in astrophotography, as their list price is pretty close. Hope you can get one for testing soon!
Ryan
We tried getting a review sample of the Firin 20mm 2.0 several times by now. No luck so far.
Besides that it seems to share the flare issues with almost all the other Tokina lenses…
Hi,
thanks for all of your good reviews.
I’m looking into buying a 20mm / f1.8-2.8 for (Astro) Landscapes. It has to double, because together with my A7 and a 35mm it will form my somewhat lightweight travel kit (I do backpacking a lot and I figured out, that all I need is 35 for everything and a nice landscape lens).
So, on my list are:
Nikon 20mm / f1.8
+ lightweight (not so much with adapter), good performance, not too expensive
+ no EXIF, manual adapter (I’m still looking into the commlite, but from what I read it doesn’t look very promising)
Samyang 20mm / f1.8
+ cheap, quite good performance according to some reviews
– bulky, no EXIF, build quality, no good >24MP
Tokina Firin 20mm / f2.0
+ reasonable priced, not too heavy, EXIF
– performance issues
Zeiss Loxia 28mm / f2.8
+ performance excellent, EXIF, great manual integration, leightweight
– expensive, “only” f2.8
I’m a bit torn here. Price is not that much an issue, the Zeiss will hurt, but it’s doable. I have more qualms about the f2.8. I recently shot the Milkyway with the Sony 28/f2 and found the foreground (a mountain, it was pitch black dark) to be barely visible between ISO 1600 and 3200. Apart from that I think that the picture gets very noisy from ISO2000 on, so I’d like to have some room here. With a 20mm / f1.8 lens I could expose a tad longer than with the 28 (around 25s vs 15s -> 2/3 stops) + 1/3 stop from f2 to f1.8, that’d give me a full stop. I’ve also considered buying an A7S but it has 1 stop less DR compared to the A7.
To complete my kit with a 35mm I’m leaning towards these options:
* Nikon 35mm / f1.8, I could reuse the adapter, but lacking EXIF would make it even in post
* Loxia 35 / f2.0, expensive, but good, manual focus only (I mostly use the lens prefocused, except for portraits, where I don’t want to make my subject wait for too long)
* Sony-Zeiss 35 / f2.8, which I currently own. I’ve gotten recently a bit disappointed with it’s performance, because I have flares in almost every picture where I included the sun for a sunstar.
And there is the 1635f28 GM, that I could have always on my A7 body, big advantage in dusty conditions (did I have some problems with that…). But it’s only f2.8 and a Zoom, which might deteriorate the IQ.
I like the Sony Zeiss 55mm / f1.8 in terms of sharpness, but I will remove it from my travel kit, because I barely use it.
So, to sum it up, do you have any recommendations for me? I was even looking at a D750, because it only weighs around 250g more than the A7 and the 20mm + 35mm are not that heavy. In total it should not be much heavier than the A7 with Loxias or the adapted 20/35mm Nikons. However, I don’t really want to give up on my A7, because I got it early this year and I like that way of shooting much better than with a DSLR.
How the actual hell did you get that close to that prairie dog lol
Ok so decided that I will sell my FIRIN 20mm and my Pentax 28mm and get this lens (I’ll use your link 😉 ). My only question is, did you ever notice any sensor reflection with this lens? I don’t see any with your photos but photos from some other reviews looked like there may have been some
Thanks mang
Ah I don’t recall ever having seen some 🤔
How in the world did you get that close to the marmot?
He was very interested in my apple.
I still love this SLR lens, whether on an E-mount (despite its disastrous mechanical linkage) or a Z-mount. A bit long, admittedly, but lightweight and offering excellent image quality. It has relegated all my previous models to the background, and I’m not tempted by modern mirrorless lens, even if they are “better.” It’s the UWA of one of my M lens set (adapted).
I’m actually surprised how small and light it is for a DSLR lens that’s over a decade ago, similar size as the Sony 20G (not accounting for the adapter) and a little lighter, with a very good MFD… I dunno how/why Nikon ended up with a design that much larger in the native 20/1.8 S for Z.
Dear Bastian, your photos here are again absolutely breathtaking! Contentwise and technically!
I’m really blown away.
I wish I would be an art buyer in an agency,- you would get the assignements for sure.
I also wish you would be then 😊
Wow, I can’t believe this review is now 10 years old. I still have this lens but I no longer use it as often. I’ve almost forgotten how great this lens is!